Tony’s Restaurant Reviews

This one makes my Top Ten!

Chef/Owner Sergio Giusti brings his home cooking knowledge from a small town near Firenze – and his food is some of the best Italian food I have eaten outside of Italy. He spent time in Chicago for years and knows all of the better Chicago Italian restaurants and their chefs (La Scarola, Piccolo Sogno, Bruna’s, Coco Pazzo, etc.) – I am sorry he left Chicago!

This small, noisy restaurant in a happening part of San Francisco (you definitely need a reservation most nights) has an exciting ambiance (more like a New York spot) – but why not go where the in-crowd goes? One of his specialties is gnocchi with a light cream tomato sauce – the gnocchi melt in your mouth. The roast chicken is perfectly prepared with the right spices and tenderness. The Veal Saltimbocca Alla Romano was tender with just the right amount of prosciutto and fontina cheese.

Salt alert: none needed here – Sergio does not mask the flavor of his cooking with too much salt – what a concept.

Next time I will have the Malanzane Alla Leonardo Da Vinci – my quest for the best Malanzane continues.

Wine list is thorough but not ridiculous; nice Barbera de Alba and Dolcetta de Alba choices along with other great Italian wines.

Also, the prices are very reasonable.

1429 Stockton Street
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 392-8585
Firenze by Night website

Before going to Del Angel after tours of Taxco silver artisan shops, how about a Berta – the precursor of margaritas – at none other than Berta’s Bar in the Taxco town center. The Berta is made with tequila, lemon juice, sugar and sparkling/mineral water. Later, Bacardi popularized the margarita by using triple sec or Cointreau with tequila and their marketing power changed the world to eclipse the Berta. I prefer the Berta.

The Del Angel Inn has a rooftop outdoor area with colorful city views, strolling guitarists/singers, a life-size Day of the Dead skeleton, and great food and libations. The onion soup (yes, I said onion soup) was perfect with onions al dente in an onion base with tasty (not stringy, messy, stick to your spoon and mouth) cheese. Thin/pounded pork cutlets with pepper sauce, rice and vegetables were cooked to perfection, and the unbreaded cutlets juicy and delicious. Celito Lindo (corny, I know) playing in the background made this place a special one; the creamy vanilla ice cream ended a perfect meal.

Celso Munoz No. 4.2 Piso
Taxco, Gro – Morelos
01(762)622-5525

Two visits to this gem hidden behind an unimpressive entry were a pleasant surprise. Gardens, gardens, gardens! EVERYTHING grows in Mexico.

The first visit for lunch was during a gathering of state and local politicians, and our group of 14 was seated at an elegant long table with the standard leather/cushioned seats popular everywhere. The Chiles Rellenos specialty had a meat and fruit filling with walnut cream sauce and pomegranates. Mexican red wine was excellent (wines throughout the trip were all good, though in one case had to settle for a Spanish Rioja – for some reason many restaurants carry Spanish but not Mexican wine).

A private dinner with Ofrendas opened for our viewing before the Day of the Dead celebrations made this a special place. Dinner was Tacos Sorgi with cheese, avocado, crunchy peppers and pork skins garnish – but take your image of yankee tacos out of mind – just not the same. Dessert, as usual, was excellent (flans galore in all restaurants – each prepared with loving care).

Morrow 15, centro Cuernavaca
Morelos, Mexico
(777)3125021

The first restaurant experience in Cuernavaca (after the prior evening’s late meal at the Hotel Mission Cuernavaca) was a great introduction to the excellent local cuisine of Mexico. This beautiful restaurant on the second floor near the town center presented a glorious lunch of chicken with chipotle, spinach and squash blossom sauce, preceded by excellent Guacamole with a cold Negra Modella, topped off with one of the best flans with good coffee. What a wonderful introduction to Mexican cuisine!

Chef Lorenzo Patron Anselmo has trained in the states and is familiar with Chicago, though he mentioned Emeril and not Rick Bayless as his respected chef. Lorenzo is creating excellent food which would stand up to all of the great Mexican spots in Chicago (Frontera, Rique’s, Wholly Frijoles, Adobo and Ole’ Ole’ – latter yet to be reviewed).

The stereotypical impression I had of Mexican cuisine before this visit (prompted by the yankee version of Mexican food) was put to rest on the very first day of our 2-week adventure in Mexico.

Hidalgo No. 6 Col. Centro

Cuernavaca, Morelos, Mexico

(01777)312-27-49

www.casahidalgo.com

This landmark waterfront (in the water) restaurant was a haunt of mine over 25 years ago as a first stop on the way to a Reds ballgame with clients in the Cincinnati area. I never forgot it – at the time I ate all types of seafood which is their claim to fame. Going back years later brought even more surprises (it was a default location with the closing of Scalea’s in Covington – later renamed).

OK… though I won’t call their eggplant melanzane, I will call two of their variations very good. One was a part of an entree called a mountain (or hill or heap) of eggplant and fried green tomatoes (check their website for exact name). Though I was turned off to green tomatoes in a spot in Galena, IL, when combined with eggplant and cooked well there is hope for them. The second variation was their fried eggplant appetizer (for four bucks!) which was really a heap of eggplant served with cocktail sauce. You could have made it a meal in itself. Since I ate here two days in a row, I also had their Mississippi bean soup (similar to good old fashioned pork and beans but with a tangier sauce). The other entree was chicken florentine which was prepared nicely; the extra steamed vegetables were welcome (I skipped the rice pilaf – enough starch in the eggplant breading).

Wine choices are thoughtful with at least a half dozen reds and whites to select by the glass. My California Zinfandel (night 1) and Pinot Noir (night 2) were fine.

If you like seafood, this also looks like a pretty good choice (judged by the menu and passing dishes).

One Ben Bernstein Place
Covington, KY 41011
(Accross the river from Cincinnati)
(859)261-4212

www.MikeFink.com

OK, so I am having an omnivore’s dilemma after reading Michael Pollan’s book (of same title). So why not have pork tenderloin in Iowa where (maybe) the pig lived (& died). Get your food close to the point of production. Kidding aside, he raises some interesting dilemmas and makes you think just a little bit more about the lunacy of the food systems we use on a daily basis.

But back to the review of this 20+ year old restaurant. I remember the very best pork tenderloin, grilled to perfection, when I used to come to Cedar Rapids years ago on business. They haven’t lost their touch. The medium well slab of meat was perfetcly grilled – moist yet charred just enough. Salad was ok, and wine choices fair. A loaf of crusty white bread starts you out, with a honey butter that compliments the crust – tear the bread apart to enjoy the crust – keep that knife away – save it for the meat. Wine choices are limited but adequate. A Santa Barbara pinot noir and a Napa cabernet sauvignon worked well with the salad & entree. Side of vegetable medley was steamed (and not overcooked – wow). This is generally a place for the well healed – lot’s of talk about money all around me. This is a very comfortable, quiet, low noise place; please don’t forget to take your cell phones outside for calls if you must – I was impressed that the only cell phone which rung during my visit was mine. How impolite.

3847 1st Ave SE

Cedar Rapids, IA

(319)364-6124

www.winifredsrestaurant.com

See my comments on the San Francisco location. This newer of their places is larger and fun (see Dracula).

55 North La Cienega Blvd.
(Near Wilshire)
(310)652-7673

www.thestinkingrose.com

The original in San Francisco is a garlic lover’s paradise – garlic in everything, even in the ice cream if you choose (not me – I prefer hot fudge). I have not had a dish here which I haven’t thoroughly enjoyed. The starter of baked garlic/oil to accompany the bread is almost reason enough to stop here. I am partial to the garlic meatloaf and garlic mashed (smashed would imply too much eclecticness) potatoes. Wine choices are fair as well as the pours.

Their “gift shop” has some very unusual garlic-themed items. During my first visit I finished half a bottle of pickled garlic before bed time – WOW!

325 Columbus Avenue (near Broadway)
San Francisco, CA
(415) 781-7673
www.thestinkingrose.com

The North Beach neighborhood in San Francisco has a multitude of good Italian restaurants – and Rose Pistola came highly recommended by a midwestern visitor – thanks for the recommendation.

Our lunch consisted of several appetizers (though the meal was just this last October I failed to note the choices); also Italian wines by the glass from an interesting selection from many regions.

Next time I’ll take notes and make specific recommendations.

532 Columbus Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 399-0499

The Newark area near the airport is home to a multitude of Portuguese restaurants, and Da Caneca’s place is well worth a visit. Though they offer a complete luncheon buffet (I believe weekdays only), I chose pork cutlets (breaded) with a cilantro sauce (though garlic was also very, very present). Starter soup was fresh and not salty (kudos to the cook), and bread/oil authentic – good bread is always a treat. A glass of dry red Portuguese wine rounded out my dining experience.

Though this is only the second Portuguese restaurant I’ve added to my list (see the entry in MA), I will add others whenever the opportunity presents itself.

72 Elm Road
(corner of Houston Street)
Newark, NJ 07105
(973) 589-6882

www.tonydacaneca.com

by all means check the website or call for directions, you’ll be glad you did