Tony’s Restaurant Reviews

The second recommendation from the owners of Coppi, Centro is in the same class as North 44 – excellent food and circuses galore! The visual experience alone is worth the visit.

On my visit on Monday night things were pretty quiet, but weekends must be jammed. Wine choices are extensive and varied, running the full gamut from reasonable to high end; this would be a Wine Spectator favorite. I chose a moderately priced CA pinot noir (my Oregon choice was out of stock). Evian water was another treat (thought I requested Lake Ontario straight).

Sesame flatbread and two kinds of wheat bread with a mild hummus-style spread started the experience. I chose the Risotto with roasted quail, wild mushrooms, shavings of truffled pecorino and port wine reduction. The risotto was perfectly cooked and flavors balanced to create a complex dining experience. Portion size was really enough for three (me, myself and I) so next time will order half portions and try other things. My dinner guest had a risotto with sea scallops (he said it was very good).

No time or appetite for dessert but would like to try their international cheese plate (Cashel Blue from Ireland, Pierre Robert from France, Parmigiano Reggiano from Italy and Murcia al Vino from Spain); for $17 CAN sounds like a good deal.

The pasta and risotto dishes (and pizza) are in the $17 range, with entrees in the $40 range. The Wine/Pasta Bar downstairs was closed so I assume it’s more moderately priced.

$$ to $$$

2472 Yonge Street
Toronto, Ontario
Canada M4P 2H5
(416) 483-2211

www.centrorestaurant.com

Our second dinner (and later lunch and brunch – couldn’t get enough of this place) during the Ebert Overlooked Film Festival brought us to this cutely named place – our first impression of the name wasn’t very positive. Well, well – what a pleasant surprise. Sitting at the bar for dinner on a Friday night couldn’t have been more fun – Champaign locals are interesting and low key, and proud of their town.

My Chicken Gordon Bleu, with lots of extra sauteed vegetables, was nicely prepared in the Milanese style. My guest’s fish entree with vegetables was also delicious. All entrees are really large enough to share. The lunch menu was also varied but had few protein-only items. Brunch offered exceptional omelettes.
This is our favorite place in Champaign.

Wines by the glass were well priced, and the wine list adequate, though we didn’t really peruse the entire list.

$$

114 West Church
Champaign, IL 61820
near the Amtrak Station
(217) 359-7377

opened in 1983

“The Hill” district in St. Louis is about a 10 square mile area which has maintained its Italian ethnic flavor, as evidenced by the numerous restaurants in such a concentrated area – my first Cunetto visit was a happy occasion for the hungry tiger. Although it bills itself as a house of pasta, the menu is very extensive and includes many meat, chicken and seafood entrees – all served with a glass of their house wine if you choose. The pasta selections are extensive, including a dish given an Alba name which has a beef sauce base. My chicken with prosciutto and mushroom cheese sauce was very good, though the side of broccoli was overcooked (I had it as an upgrade instead of the side of pasta which is offered with a red or white cream and pea sauce – next time will try the latter). The house salad is of the chopped variety – also very good. Wine list is short but adequate with a nice selection of California (including Gundlach Bunchu Merlot and Cabernet) and Italian wines.

$$

5453 Magnolia (at Southwest)
St. Louis, MO 63139
(314) 781-1135

www.cunetto.com

March 2005 update:

OK, how do you resist the risotto porcini with parmagianno cheese wheel (about 30″ diamater and 8″ high) – the cooked risotto/porcini creation (made on the first day of creation I assume – it’s real good), is ladled into the hollowed-out cheese wheel where generous amounts of cheese are shaved off and blended together with the creation. The end result is an even better creation (I’m getting religious – sorry). The Dolcetta d’ Alba was the perfect compliment. I will go back if for this specialty alone.

A wonderful Italian place with Parma cheese wheel offerings if you make a special request to Fausto Di Berardino.
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Where the owner sings to his customers – an ex-Sinatra hangout.
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266 West Lake Street
far western suburbs
(630) 529-5334

The real thing, small place, it would help to speak Italian, a Wine Spectator cellar.
$$$

Eight South Front Street

Philadelphia

(215) 922-2803

A gritty location but special food – new scattered site housing good to see.
One of several locations, but the original – reopening January 2004 after a fire.

$$

526 Harrison
Kansas City MO
(816) 221-2455

The big sibling of the cafe – a special place with Tuscany hill town wines.
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