Tony’s Restaurant Reviews

Look out, Rick Bayless, you have a worthy competitor for freshly prepared gourmet Mexican food. Just getting around to this post after a fourth visit last night to their Old Town location on Wells. Tableside prepared guacamole is the very best, and corn chips among da best. You can even purchase the guacamole gift sets (to make your own tableside creation and serve it in a VERY authentic mortar – rough surfaces and all). The margarita choice is simple – they make one kind (though you can go wild with hundreds of tequila and other drink choices). It is one of the best.

After the guacamole, we shared Sopes Surtidos (masa boats topped with 4 fillings). Wow! Sharing appetizers is a good way to go. But then why not share an entree? OK, we shared the Chile Relleno which was a very fresh poblano (you can tell old or food-serviced poblano by its wilty texture) stuffed with asadero, panela cheese and epazote basted in ranchera salsa, black beans and sour cream. What a delight.

Other noteworthy specialties include Cazuelas which are casseroles with cheese and vegetables and/or proteins (peck peck, moo moo). Of course entrees include the other proteins (oink oink and quack quack). I have not cracked up, just having fun writing about this place.

The wait staff is always friendly and service timely. Their 2 locations are both beautiful. The one on Wells is the old steakhouse completely updated with wonderful art and Mexican artifacts. The Division Street location is also a sensory experience. Noise isn’t an issue as it provides white background noise so you can talk about almost anything with your dining guests.

Old Town Location
1610 North Wells
Chicago, IL 60614
(312)266-7999

Wicker Park Location
2005 West Division
Chicago, IL 60622
(773)252-9990

www.adobogrill.com

One of my new favorite places for vegetarian and healthy food – with atmosphere to boot.

Black bean cakes with wonderful sides of whipped sweet potatoes, oil/vinegar cole slaw, and a third vegetable (many choices as sides) are worth the visit. Portions are ample/filling. Another night had the chicken/pepper concoction over brown rice – here you can ask for the brown instead of white rice – which was flavorful and interesting.

Wine chioces are limited but good/fair. Also a great selection of beers on draft (checkthe daily specials) and desserts. The orange juice/vanilla ice cream dessert reminded me of creamsicles from times past. Maybe next time a black cow.

Wait staff is friendly and efficient. Their outdoor seating area overlooks the Sears Tower and is a perfect place to enjoy a leisurely evening out with your favorite people. The clientele are eclectic and funny – come to Chicago the hip/friendly place.

1001 West Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL
(312)850-BONE
www.wishbonechicago.com

(second location at 3300 North Lincoln Avenue)

This is the new hit – they’re popping up, all over. This one is worth a try –be amazed at one of the finest salad bars in the entire universe.

The meats include rump cut, black pepper filet, bottom sirloin, filet mignon, rack of lamb, beef ribs, pork tenderloin, New York strip, pork ribs, garlic beef Coulette (rump), sausage (wow), bacon filet, and shrimp. Also pineapple from the spit. Lobster also is available a la carte.

Wine choices are plentiful wih some great selections by the glass.

The service is a cut above – our waiter was from Brazil (duh) and everyone is attentive and friendly.

539 North Dearborn Street
Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 595-9000
www.brazzaz.com

Jonathon Goldsmith has recreated a Naples Pizzeria in the Ravenswood area of the far north side of Chicago. The specialty is thin crust, bubbly, risen pizza which is baked in an oven right from Italy – and even tended by a transplant from Italy. What attention to detail! Take a look at the ceramic design of grain on the oven exterior.

But more importantly, have some pizza. There are 12 “standard” offerings on the one-page menu, and always a few specials as well. We shared the Quattro Formaggi (Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Ementhal and Fontina), Salsiccia (Fior Di Latte Mozzarella, tomatoes, olive oil and Italian sausage), and two others. The pizzas are individual ones, but one could be easily shared by two diners if an appetizer is ordered. The grilled vegetables were a real hit, along with the melanzane (eggplant). Go for the Melanzane!!

Wine choices include 6 whites and 3 reds and are fairly priced by the glass or bottle.

The espresso is WORTH THE VISIT. Desserts are artfully prepared.

1769 West Sunnyside Street
Chicago, IL
(773) 878-2420

Fine Italian fare is the norm at this far north side (somewhat west) family business. They have survived many years in a tough Chicago business restaurant climate – and they deserve kudos for maintaining high standards.

While I have no specific recommendations, I will say that all food is prepared with care and brought to the table hot. Wine list is ample and includes some interesting ones – the trend now to the Super Tuscans is a welcome one, though everything over 14 degrees is a bit excessive (for the wine snobs – get with the new terminology).

4618 North Lincoln Ave.
Chicago, IL
(773) 784-6222

www.laboccachicago.com

This wine shop/bar/tasting room on west Randolph does a great job with wine and cheese tastings. It has a similar format to Bin 36 but is privately owned. Wine tastings are numerous and cheese choices adequate but not extensive. Anyway, this place is a real value and the perfect spot to evaluate your favorite reds (or whites). Atmosphere is friendly and modern (I like that word modern – don’t get a chance to use it often).

1415 West Randolph
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 942-1268

Pasta, pasta, pasta, and more pasta – what more could you ask for (how about nice and fair wine choices) – you got it!

The four of us were looking for a friendly place for pasta in the trendy North Halsted Street area north of North Avenue (how about them norths). This small and friendly place offers al dente pasta with a variety of sides and sauces. I like good pasta, so I really liked this place. Nothing fancy or obscure about the cooking. Wait staff very efficient and friendly, and the owner is keeping his eye on things.

1966 North Halsted
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 248-1400

Our first visit to this Guatemalan restaurant was a pleasant surprise. Their far northwest side location is easily found east of the Edens expressway (94) on Lawrence Avenue.

Guatemalan food is somewhat spicy and plantains are used a lot. Their avocado/guacomole preparation is worth the visit. Good beer is the best choice with this cuisine. Protein portions are large and flavorful – chicken and beef. Service is extremely friendly.

3830 West Lawrence
Chicago, IL 60625
(Lawrence is 4800 north – or about 6 miles north of downtown – and 3830 west is about 5 miles west of downtown)[how about that short lesson about the Chicago address system].

Alert, Alert, Alert! October 2006

Get this, the owner/chef is watching the tube in Rome when he watches a cooking show with a Piemonte recipe for, get this, pork ribs. Try them, they are like nothing you have ever tasted – braised so they are tender, with a delicate and sublime, yes I said sublime, sauce worth the visit. Bravo, Anthony Barabente for being so creative. Look out Robinson’s Ribs – too bad Royko is not around though he would be somewhat concerned with the gentrification of Da City. Maybe Anthony would be up to the outdoor rib cook-off. And yes, the pumpkin ravioli with burnt sage atop fried sweet potatoes is still another favorite. Enjoy! (more…)

Italian restaurants can be a surprise, mundane, or bad. A visit to this place in the way past wasn’t very impressive, but this follow-up visit proved to be a good experience. The sauteed vegetable appetizer was tasty and generous enough for 2 or 3; the eggplant could have used some steeping or peeled skin to reduce some tartness, but not a bad dish for a vegetarian starter.

My pasta with light tomato cream sauce and sausage slices was excellent – a good combination of pasta and protein, and the pasta was al dente (though I did give that instruction when I ordered). My guest’s grilled chicken atop vegetables galore was also very good – the chicken was pounded flat and cooked to perfection. Both entree portions were large anough for two to share.

The wine choices by the glass are good, but fair pours should be considered. Though the place is in a hot neighborhood on the near northwest side of Chicago, just east of Western Avenue not too far from the historic site of Riverview, sometimes generosity on the wine side can promote more return visits and offset the higher rent. Restaurants should take lessons from Bin 36.

2116 West Roscoe Street
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 477-7330

Roscoe is between Belmont and Addison, and reataurant is east of Western Ave.