Tony’s Restaurant Reviews

Another business trip to lower Michigan brought me to the lovely town of Marshall – this time with countryside blanketed in snow (a picture perfect scene). Noticing that one of my prior haunts here was closed (looks like another case of an over-extended owner), I decided to try the original Schuler’s in Marshall. What an absolute treat!Owned by a 3rd generation Schuler, Hans keeps up the good family name. Though Schuler’s at one time had I believe eleven locations, this has dwindled down to the original one with family issues and settlements taking their toll. But fear not, they are alive and kicking and offer superb meals of real food.

Their famous cheese spread, served here in its original recipe and “homemade’ on location, is a horseradish infused cheddar which goes very well with the crisp flatbread. It was the perfect appetizer to compliment my half-bottle of Cabernet; good wine marketing with several half bottles as well as many choices by the glass of both reds and whites. Fair pours via the measured decanter is the right way to go. Prices are reasonable. Nice way to start the experience. The original cheese spread in the 40’s and 50’s included beer as an important ingredient, but oftentimes the beer never got into the cheese batches (must have been a great place to work).

The Caesar salad was good – crispy croutons and onion crunchies, fresh romaine and just the right amount of dressing and cheese. My entree of Pecan Crusted Chicken Breast was excellently prepared by their chef from Viet Nam (who trained in Paris); a true pecan crust with brie and spinach filling, sides of creamy parmesan polenta (though the menu I took said risotto – relatives of each other from Italy, so OK either way), carrots and broccoli. This is real food prepared in Michael Pollan’s way – it looks like what it is and isn’t hiding any secret ingredients unknown to us lay diners. Couldn’t resist banana bread pudding with carmelized bananas and a side of vanilla bean ice cream. Comfort food needed on a cold and wintry night.

115 South Eagle Street
Marshall, MI 49068
(269)781-0600
www.SchulersRestaurant.com

Before going to Del Angel after tours of Taxco silver artisan shops, how about a Berta – the precursor of margaritas – at none other than Berta’s Bar in the Taxco town center. The Berta is made with tequila, lemon juice, sugar and sparkling/mineral water. Later, Bacardi popularized the margarita by using triple sec or Cointreau with tequila and their marketing power changed the world to eclipse the Berta. I prefer the Berta.

The Del Angel Inn has a rooftop outdoor area with colorful city views, strolling guitarists/singers, a life-size Day of the Dead skeleton, and great food and libations. The onion soup (yes, I said onion soup) was perfect with onions al dente in an onion base with tasty (not stringy, messy, stick to your spoon and mouth) cheese. Thin/pounded pork cutlets with pepper sauce, rice and vegetables were cooked to perfection, and the unbreaded cutlets juicy and delicious. Celito Lindo (corny, I know) playing in the background made this place a special one; the creamy vanilla ice cream ended a perfect meal.

Celso Munoz No. 4.2 Piso
Taxco, Gro – Morelos
01(762)622-5525

Two visits to this gem hidden behind an unimpressive entry were a pleasant surprise. Gardens, gardens, gardens! EVERYTHING grows in Mexico.

The first visit for lunch was during a gathering of state and local politicians, and our group of 14 was seated at an elegant long table with the standard leather/cushioned seats popular everywhere. The Chiles Rellenos specialty had a meat and fruit filling with walnut cream sauce and pomegranates. Mexican red wine was excellent (wines throughout the trip were all good, though in one case had to settle for a Spanish Rioja – for some reason many restaurants carry Spanish but not Mexican wine).

A private dinner with Ofrendas opened for our viewing before the Day of the Dead celebrations made this a special place. Dinner was Tacos Sorgi with cheese, avocado, crunchy peppers and pork skins garnish – but take your image of yankee tacos out of mind – just not the same. Dessert, as usual, was excellent (flans galore in all restaurants – each prepared with loving care).

Morrow 15, centro Cuernavaca
Morelos, Mexico
(777)3125021

The first restaurant experience in Cuernavaca (after the prior evening’s late meal at the Hotel Mission Cuernavaca) was a great introduction to the excellent local cuisine of Mexico. This beautiful restaurant on the second floor near the town center presented a glorious lunch of chicken with chipotle, spinach and squash blossom sauce, preceded by excellent Guacamole with a cold Negra Modella, topped off with one of the best flans with good coffee. What a wonderful introduction to Mexican cuisine!

Chef Lorenzo Patron Anselmo has trained in the states and is familiar with Chicago, though he mentioned Emeril and not Rick Bayless as his respected chef. Lorenzo is creating excellent food which would stand up to all of the great Mexican spots in Chicago (Frontera, Rique’s, Wholly Frijoles, Adobo and Ole’ Ole’ – latter yet to be reviewed).

The stereotypical impression I had of Mexican cuisine before this visit (prompted by the yankee version of Mexican food) was put to rest on the very first day of our 2-week adventure in Mexico.

Hidalgo No. 6 Col. Centro

Cuernavaca, Morelos, Mexico

(01777)312-27-49

www.casahidalgo.com

Here we go again! George and I were off to 35th and Racine for our (now) annual trek to get our California wine juice. October 8, 2006 was a perfect day for the outing. This time 60 liters of Pinot Noir, and 20 liters of Chardonnay. We’ll see how my first white survives my methodology; let’s hope for the best.

Our outing included a stop at Freddy’s for the ultimate Italian sausage sandwich, and sharing a glass of George’s burgundy from last year’s vintage. I actually mis-labeled my first vintage in that the California juice used was actually a blend of Pinot and other varietals. Oh well, this time truth in labeling will be the case as the Pinot Noir was a little more expensive than last year’s blend. Supplies again from Paul on Taylor Street (the 5 gallon glass fermenting vessel and other odds and ends).

Nothing to do now for a couple of months but wait.

Another new spot in Evanston, this one in an updated site which used to be a family owned bakery. Three Italian guys open a place with Nino the chef from, I believe, Sardinia. My visits to Sardinia were filled with wonderful food, seafood in fact, before my allergies got the best of me and I had to leave the ocean food scene. Back to the trattoria.

Fresh handmade minestrone began the dinner – what a delight. Plenty of fresh vegetables, no superflous anything, and served hot. Bravo. Wine choices by the glass limited but interesting; pours fair but not generous. Then the magnificent spaghetti alla carbonara – al dente pasta, a rich sauce (but not creamy – Nino uses eggs instead), and real good pancetta. Portion size just right for a big guy like me, but not ridiculous.

I will return.

706 Main Street

Evanston, IL 60202

(847)465-1111

www.trattoria-doc.com

How about an inn built in 1884 (guest rooms available, and fall colors make this spot unbelievable) with a family style reataurant? Yes!
Family style fried chicken among the very best, choice of white or dark, with refills for $3. Sides of vegetables are also refilled (at no additional cost); try the cooked apples. Why is it so good, because the chicken is fried in fresh oil, the breading is not overly seasoned or salty, and the service staff make you love this place. Take the chicken refills home for your picnic lunch the next day in The Smoky Mountain Bryson City section of the park, right down the road from The Folkestone Inn B&B — check latter place out on-line.

This is a dry county.

100 Haywood Road

Dillsboro, NC 28725

(800)972-5623

Nancy & Pasquale Simon (Pasquale originally from Spain) have struck out on their second restaurant in the area after having sold their original Pasquale’s restaurant; thus the variation on the Pasquale theme for the new place.

The Pasta e Fagioli soup was freshly made with just the right amount of beans, and served hot (bravo). Nice wine choices by the glass (with variety to suit most tastes), and fair pours. I loved their Pasta Carbonara and give them credit for finding good pancetta (though they say prosciutto on the menu, it sure was chunky and fried hard, thus my license to call it pancetta). Cream sauce was a bit heavy; but heck, why not have some cream once in awhile. My guest’s ribeye was well prepared. Our second dinner the following evening with Veal Marsala and Pasta Primavera were good, too.

25 Everett Street

Bryson City, NC

(828)488-9555

The Great Smoky Mountain area brought us to a wonderful B&B in Bryson City, and to a French & American Fusion restaurant in Asheville after wandering around the Biltmore Estate Winery. Obviously the Vanderbilts were able to build a castle along the lines of Hearst, but with good taste. Amazing what $3 million did back at the turn of the (prior) century.

Anyway, back to the Left Bank. Wine choices adequate by the glass, and guess what my next comment will be – you got it, fair pours. Salads and breads were good, and the entrees all prepared with care and creativity. Putting fusion into food is just as difficult (and probably more so) than accomplishing fusion in nuclear power plants. Let’s stick with fission (even though I eat no seafood). Sorry for the tangent, my Bonny Doon semi-monthly shipments are infiltrating my brain cells.

So I guess fusion food means unusual combinations – they got that one right. While I can’t recall the exact combinations that qualify/justify the terminology, I recommend Left Bank enthusiastically.

90 Patton Avenue

Asheville, NC 28801

(828)251-5552

Another national steakhouse (and seafood) chain worth a try is The Capital Grille. Their Chicago location was raved about by associates who loved their seafood. The opportunity to end several serious meeting days with a relaxing dinner brought us to the Tampa location.

Wine list is very thorough (and can be expensive – so what’s new) and decent beer choices begin the experience; if you are a frequent guest, you can negotiate for a kiosk of your own to store your wine.

The salads, steaks, sides are all excellent. While service can be spotty (it’s a crowded place), there is no complaint with anything else about this place. This is very similar in concept to Ruth Chris & Del Frisco, and the same price.

International Plaza & Bay Street

2223 North Westshore Blvd.

Tampa, FL 33607

(813)830-9433

www.thecapitalgrille.com